The air in Milan during Fashion Week is always thick with anticipation, but on September 27, 2025, it was electric with a specific, history-making tension. All eyes were on the Versace show, but not for the reason they had been for nearly three decades. For the first time since 1997, the collection was not presented by Donatella Versace.
In a move that sent ripples through the industry, Donatella appointed Dario Vitale, a relatively low-profile but deeply respected former senior designer at the house, as its new Creative Director. The Spring/Summer 2026 show was his debut, his "arrivati," and the fashion world held its breath. Could anyone truly step into those iconic heels?
The answer, as the models strode down the runway, was a resounding, sophisticated, and nuanced yes. Dario Vitale did not attempt to be Donatella. Instead, he delivered a masterclass in respectful evolution, presenting a collection that was unmistakably Versace, yet filtered through a distinctly modern and intellectual lens. This wasn't a revolution; it was a revelation.
The Weight of the Crown: Stepping into a Legacy
To understand the magnitude of this moment, one must understand what Versace represents. Under Gianni Versace, the house became synonymous with a fearless, opulent, and theatrical brand of glamour. After his tragic passing, Donatella not only steered the ship but expanded its universe, infusing it with a rock-and-roll edge, a embrace of celebrity culture, and a powerful, unapologetic femininity. She became the living embodiment of the brand.
Appointing a successor to such a figure is arguably one of the most challenging tasks in fashion. The new creative director must honor the DNA—the prints, the baroque excess, the sensual cuts—while proving they have a unique and relevant point of view to carry the brand forward.
Dario Vitale was not a celebrity designer parachuted in from another major house. His deep, internal understanding of Versace’s architecture, having worked closely with Donatella for years, made him the perfect candidate. He wasn't an outsider interpreting a brief; he was an insider reinterpreting a legacy he helped build. This intimate knowledge was the bedrock of his triumphant debut.
Deconstructing the SS 2026 Collection: A Dialogue Between Past and Future
Vitale’s collection, titled "Radice," meaning "root" in Italian, was a profound statement of intent. It was a deep, thoughtful excavation of the house's archives, but instead of presenting mere replicas, he deconstructed, analyzed, and reassembled the codes with a contemporary sensibility.
1. The New Sensuality: Power in Restraint
Donatella’s Versace is often about overt, explosive sexuality—the safety-pin dress, the slits to the hip, the body-conscious silhouettes. Vitale introduced a new, more cerebral form of sensuality. He explored the power of what is concealed as much as what is revealed.
We saw this in the masterful use of tailoring. Sharp, masculine-inspired blazers, a core Versace staple, were reimagined with asymmetric, unbuttoned panels that revealed glimpses of the torso or were worn over nothing at all. It was a confident, powerful nudity that felt controlled and intentional, rather than purely provocative.
Sheer fabrics were employed not just for shock value, but as layers in a complex narrative. A delicate black sheer gown was embroidered with motifs inspired by Gianni’s original Greek key patterns, the pattern acting as a modest veil over the body beneath. This was sensuality as an intellectual puzzle, inviting the audience to look closer, to engage more deeply.
2. The Print Revolution: Archival Codes, Modern Execution
No Versace collection is complete without its prints, and here, Vitale showcased his archival prowess. The iconic Medusa head and Greek meanders were present, but they were often fractured, pixelated, or embroidered in a muted tonal palette rather than printed in bold colors.
In one standout look, a classic giallo (yellow) Versace hue was used for a flowing silk dress, but the traditional Baroque print was broken up into abstract, almost digital-looking patterns. It was a nod to Gianni’s love for art and history, filtered through the lens of a designer who lives in a digital world. He treated the archives not as a static library, but as a living, breathing source code to be reprogrammed.
3. Material Innovation: The Future of Glamour
Vitale demonstrated a keen interest in materiality, pushing the boundaries of what constitutes "Versace" fabric. Alongside the expected lush jerseys and gleaming satins, he introduced technical fabrics with a matte finish, crinkled metallic linens, and neoprene-like materials molded into elegant, sculptural forms.
This focus on innovation grounds the collection in the present. It signals that Versace glamour is not trapped in the 1990s but is adaptable and forward-looking. A cocktail dress made from a laser-cut technical textile, mimicking the complexity of a Baroque frame, perfectly encapsulated this fusion of historical reference and futuristic execution.
4. The Silhouette Spectrum: From Fluid to Architectural
The collection showcased a beautiful range of silhouettes, moving fluidly between the house's signature body-con and new, more architectural shapes. There were still the impeccable, hip-hugging dresses that are a red-carpet staple, but they were balanced with wide-leg, fluid trousers, cocoon-like coats, and dresses with structured, off-the-shoulder volumes that recalled classical statues.
This variety speaks to a more inclusive vision of the "Versace woman." She can be the red-carpet siren, but she can also be the powerful executive in a sharp pantsuit, or the avant-garde art patron in a sculptural gown. Vitale expanded the definition without diluting the core identity of strength and confidence.
The Debut as a Strategic Masterstroke
Beyond the aesthetic success, Vitale’s debut was a strategic masterstroke for the Versace brand, addressing several key challenges in the modern luxury landscape.
Building on Stability: By promoting from within, Donatella and the parent company, Capri Holdings, ensured continuity. The brand avoids the radical, often disruptive, identity shift that can come with an external appointment. This reassures loyal clients and maintains brand stability while still injecting fresh energy.
The "Quiet Luxury" Counterpoint: In an era dominated by discussions of "quiet luxury" and stealth wealth, Versace has always stood for the opposite: loud, proud, and decadent. Vitale’s collection cleverly navigates this. He introduced elements of restraint and sophistication that can appeal to a minimalist-leaning audience, but always with a quintessentially Versace twist—an unexpected cut, a subversive sheer panel, an intricate embroidery. He proved that Versace doesn’t need to be quiet to be intelligent.
Authenticity in the Digital Age: In a market saturated with hype and collaborative marketing, Vitale’s deep-rooted understanding of the brand feels authentic. His collection wasn’t built on a gimmick; it was built on a foundation of respect and knowledge. This authenticity resonates powerfully with consumers who crave genuine brand stories and design integrity.
The Verdict: A Confident First Step into a New Era
The closing of the show was symbolic. The final model exited, and instead of Donatella Versace taking her triumphant solo walk, she was joined by Dario Vitale. They walked hand-in-hand, a powerful image of transition, mentorship, and mutual respect. Donatella’s smile was not one of resignation, but of pride—a queen confidently affirming her chosen successor.
The critical and commercial reception will unfold in the coming months, but the immediate takeaway is clear: Dario Vitale has successfully passed his first, and most difficult, test. He did not try to erase Donatella’s legacy; he built upon it. He honored the past without being imprisoned by it.
The Versace SS 2026 collection is more than just a beautiful set of clothes. It is a case study in successful creative directorship transition. It is a lesson in how to deconstruct and recontextualize iconic codes without losing their soul. And most importantly, it is a bold declaration that the house of Versace is not a museum piece. It is a living, evolving entity, and under Dario Vitale’s guidance, its future looks as bright, complex, and captivating as its storied past. The roots are strong, and the new branches are reaching confidently for the sun.
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